Rizzoli New York
Rizzoli New York
Anne Quatrano is one of the most accomplished chefs in the United States. Named Best Chef of the Southeast by the James Beard Foundation and Best New Chef by Food & Wine, Quatrano has been featured in The New York Times, Southern Living, Garden & Gun, and Bon Appétit.
“Over the course of my career as a chef, I have discovered that, as much as I love preparing great food, I have an equal passion for the inedible gestures of hospitality. I enjoy the process of feeding people, from devising a menu and setting the table to attending to the details such as flowers and seating arrangements.” –Anne Quatrano
For a cook as passionate as Anne Quatrano, food marks the passage of the year. Each month inspires her to think of new ways to use the season’s plentiful bounty. With her husband, award-winning chef Clifford Harrison, Quatrano operates four of Atlanta’s most celebrated restaurants—Bacchanalia, Floataway Café, Quinones, and Abattoir—as well as a cook’s larder and market, Star Provisions. Now, in her first (and long-awaited) cookbook, SUMMERLAND: RECIPES FOR CELEBRATING WITH SOUTHERN HOSPITALITY, she draws on her twenty-eight years of experience as a chef to pull together more than 100 of her best recipes and entertaining ideas. Beginning with September, readers will find chapters devoted to the bounty of every month. For a fall lunch, friends gather by an old red barn to enjoy mint juleps, roasted quail, and madeleines. In April, the farm serves as an Easter egg hunting ground with a supper of slow roasted porchetta, thyme onion rolls, and pea and fennel salad. For July Fourth, it’s a lakeside barbecue with watermelon sangria, wood-grilled summer sausage, corn on the cob in a jar, and roasted peaches with chamomile ice milk. Christmas is a quiet setting by the fire with truffled broccoli soup, a rib-roast of beef with Yorkshire popovers, and stump de Noël, her own take on the French holiday classic.
Peppered throughout are stories of Summerland—the farm that’s been in Quatrano’s family for five generations and that supplies much of the produce for her restaurants—which also serves as the idyllic backdrop for many of the outdoor parties in the book. SUMMERLAND represents the inviting and generous hospitality the South is known for and is destined to become a classic cookbook on Southern entertaining.
This is a perfect autumn salad: not so much cooked as wilted greens in a warm, savory-sweet vinaigrette. Here in the South, we are lucky to have so many different greens that grow remarkably well virtually all year round. From the traditional collards, spinach, mustard, and turnip greens to the international varieties that have recently made their way here, including bok choy, tatsoi, and komatsuna, there are a variety of tastes and textures to choose from. No matter where you live, experiment with seasonal greens until you find your favorites. If you’re shopping at the farmers’ market, most of the vendors will be happy to let you have a few nibbles for taste-testing. The same goes for the squash—you can use butternut, acorn, pumpkin, African, or any similar variety. At Summerland Farm, we are lucky to have American chestnut trees planted by my ancestors, and even luckier that those trees survived the chestnut blight that killed most American chestnuts in the first half of the twentieth century. Fresh chestnuts—often grown in California—are available in many natural foods stores in the cooler months. If you can’t find chestnuts, hazelnuts or cashews would make a good substitute.
1 medium African or small butternut squash
2 Moonglow or Asian pears, cored, peeled, and diced (about 1 cup)
1 tablespoon olive oil
1⁄2 cup (about 12) chestnuts
10 shallots, peeled
1⁄3 pound (about 2 bunches) tender komatsuna leaves or fresh spinach, torn
1⁄3 pound (about 2 heads) tatsoi, torn
1⁄3 pound (about 2 bunches) mustard greens, torn
For the Vinaigrette
8 ounces bacon, diced
2 tablespoons Dijon mustard
2 tablespoons local honey
1⁄4 cup Champagne vinegar
1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme
1 teaspoon freshly ground pepper
1⁄3 cup canola oil
Preheat the oven to 400° F.
Peel the squash: First cut into two cross sections, scrape out the seeds, and place the squash, flat side down, on a cutting board. Work around the squash with a sharp knife or peeler, making sure to remove the layer of lighter colored flesh under the skin as well as the skin. Dice into 1/2-inch cubes to make about 1 cup (reserve any leftovers for another use).
Arrange the diced squash and pears on a baking sheet and toss with the oil. Roast until browned, about 20 minutes; set aside at room temperature. Make a cross slit on the rounded end of each chestnut with a sharp paring knife. Place on a baking sheet and roast for 15 minutes, or until the cut sections on the bottoms of the nuts just start to curl. Peel the chestnuts as soon as they are cool enough to handle, as they will peel the easiest while hot. Cut into quarters and set aside. Reduce the oven temperature to 350° F. Wrap the shallots in parchment paper and then in aluminum foil. Bake until tender and slightly caramelized, about 1 hour. Once the shallots are cool enough to handle, chop coarsely and set aside.
To make the vinaigrette: In a large saute pan, cook the bacon over medium heat until crispy; transfer the bacon to a paper towel–lined plate and reserve the fat in the pan. Once the fat has cooled slightly, strain through a fine-mesh strainer into a measuring cup that has a spout. In a blender or food processor, combine the mustard, honey, vinegar, thyme, and pepper and blend for 30 seconds. Slowly add the strained warm bacon fat and the oil through the cap of the blender or the feed tube of the food processor, blending until thoroughly combined. Pour the vinaigrette into a large mixing bowl.
Add the squash and pears, chestnuts, shallots, bacon, komatsuna, tatsoi, and mustard greens to the mixing bowl and toss with the warm vinaigrette. Serve immediately.
This recipe may be reproduced with the following credit:
Recipe from Summerland by Anne Quatrano. (Rizzoli New York ; October 2013; $39.95/Hardcover; ISBN-13; 978-0847841318). http://www.rizzoliusa.com/
Contact: Nicki Clendening